ER News

Sunday, September 09, 2012

Autumn Journal 2012, September 9

I've been working on a FIPSE Evaluation all day, and I'm whipped.   Paris sent the above photograph to show what he is cooking for dinner tonight in Galloway.  Definitely inspired by his trip to Greece.  Also he's into gardening.

Alexander back in Ohio
He's got that smile because he loves to go places in the car.

Stell just rediscovered this old photo of himself dancing with his sister, Ireni, and nephew, Aggelos, a few years ago. 




Thursday, September 06, 2012

Autumn Journal 2012, September 6

Home as of just before midnight.  Nic and Apisata greeted us with smiling faces at the airport in Atlanta.  We arrived a little ahead of schedule and our luggage was waiting when we got to the carousel. (This luggage report is provided for Paris G. Kefalas).  We drove home able to hear Bill Clinton's amazing Obama-Endorsement Speech.  I found  it pitch-perfect.  Although we might have had Devon Turner meet us, as he occasionally is our driver, it was so great to have family waiting when we came up the escalator.  The trip was as one would hope uneventful, except for JFK Delta Terminal and Customs Entry.  After being in the Athens, Greece, modern airport facility, JFK looks like a WWII bunker.  When you first exit the plane, you have to walk through a smelly maze of narrow cement-brick walls in the direction of passport entry.  The escalator at the end of the maze was not working and we were behind a chubby little flight attendant in high heels with a heavy suitcase who was gingerly trying to keep from falling down the escalator.  When we ended at a wider hall, a woman who looked like a blonde Rosie O'Donnell in a Custom's Uniform was screaming at those of us on the Athens flight to line up between two barricades, American citizens on the right, non-residents on the left.   These were the spectrum of travelers you see on most overseas flights - people with tiny babies, old couples, people in wheelchairs, people who were half asleep or rousing from an intoxicating flight.  NOT HAPPY CAMPERS.  The more "Rosie" shouted the crankier the crowd became as she forced everyone into the line up.  She was trying to explain that flights were backed up and they were trying to have an "orderly" approach to going through passport entry.  The exchanges in this mildewy hot hallway were nasty.  Fortunately, because we'd flown business class, we were at the head of the line that she finally "released" to walk through winding "cattle stalls" to greet a cheerful man who looked at our customs forms, wadded mine up and tossed it, saying we only needed one per family as he stamped our passports.  Things were looking better.

Onto picking up our luggage to pass through customs.  A huge crowd of people surrounded carousel C-1 and they were still snapping at everyone and everything.  Stell went seeking a cart ,free in Atlanta each year, at this point, but $5 in NYC.  This means that a lot of poor foreigners without American currency, lugging small children, and speaking what sounds like Farsi have to also now lug their baggage to the customs control.  Our luggage of course was not on the carousel, but I noticed that hundreds of bags were pulled off alongside the carousel and fortunately all four pieces we had were together.  We loaded it onto the $5 cart and headed to the customs people, who actually are in a daze and simply glance at your shoes, take the piece of paper and send you to the next area to put your luggage on the connecting flight.  In this maze, Stell is really moving into his noteworthy phases of mumbling "what kind of a third world country is this?", I hear an "official" man mumbling a name like George Kefalla and he is waving a passport.  I wake up and realize he is holding the passport that Stell has dropped when he handed in the customs form.  Stell is reunited with his passport, which he hadn't yet missed, and my mind is calculating where we would be this morning if I hadn't overheard the mumbling man.

A tall rather attractive woman guides us to a spot to drop our luggage in a sea of bags and cranky people.  I'm convinced we will never see it again (Paris won't laugh at my premonition this time.)
We move into yet another line to go through security - this is the take your clothes off security check, and Stell by this time has had it and is bellowing that he is 76 and isn't going to remove his shoes.  To my surprise (because now I was certain we would be spending the night in NYC), they let him go through.  We redress and head to locate Gate 6, and realize we have about an hour, so we find the Delta Crown Room.   Usually when you to into an airlines hospitality suite, it's a simple matter of showing your ticket and ID and helping yourself to the bar, nicer furnishings, cleaner bathrooms, but in this suite we first encounter a line of people, and one "hostess" who must think she is practicing to be Piers Morgan, because she is carrying on a Chatty-Cathy interview with every one in line.  Stell is ready to jump over the counter and strangle her.  We finally make it past Cathy, I get a drink and Stell goes to the bathroom.  When he comes out, he can't find me, and finally I catch his attention.  We sit next to a young couple.  The young man is loaded down with some huge leather-bound books.  Stell inquires what these are, and the young man shows him that they are all Hebrew books.  He has the look of a person who might be preparing to be a rabbi.

I insist that at 6:15 we should go to the gate, because Chatty Cathy has indicated our flight might be moved to another gate.  Stell would rather chat with the prospective rabbi and his girlfriend.  I do as usual and bid the three of them goodbye.  When we get to Gate 6, there are alot of passengers who are listening to the messages that we will be delayed because the caterers are late preparing the plane.  Stell gives me his standard "I told you so, heh, heh" glare.  Finally we board, are served drinks, and a terrible chicken dinner, which was only intended to be a meal to stare at.

This morning we are up after sleeping until 6 a.m.  I'm writing a grocery list and preparing at 8:30 a.m. to go and get the mail.  Stell is much more cheerful.  We are both so grateful to Nic and Apisata.  Chris Franklin has kept the yard beautiful- lots of flowers still blooming.  The scenery is so very different from our Stavraqu perch.

I don't imagine my blog will be so lengthy or regular, but feel free to check in if you've been reading and want to know what "I've been thinking."

There is no place like home, and Stell would say "homes".   A truly memorable summer.

Tuesday, September 04, 2012

Summer Journal 2012, September 4

Although we've paid Cosmote for the summer use of the Internet, it appears we haven't been cut off yet, so I'll share my photos from today - a day of errands.  We first went by the police department so Stell and Stellios Foras could get papers notarized that shows that Foras has legal authority to be on the property and care for it while we aren't here.  There is a terrific little house with a lot of flowers directly across the street from the police department, so while I sat on the bench awaiting their transaction, I took this picture:

 
Next stop was Toula's so I could award her a Kalosyne Award.  Stell cried and she cried.  She said that Stell and I were the only people who ever acknowledged the hard work that she does:  running the hardware store, raising all of her five or six grandchildren, doing their laundry, cooking their meals, etc.  She didn't get to finish high school although she was a very good student, because her mother said she would only get mixed up with boys.  It turned out she was married at sixteen without a high school diploma.  Nonetheless she is an avid reader, a very competent businesswoman, and a tremendous grandmother.  She is exactly the kind of person I want to honor with this award.   Here's toula at her place receiving the Kalosyne Award:
 
One of her grandsons standing over her shoulder
 
Toula and Margaret
 
Next we went by Panyiotis to pick up the marble slab that reads Parents' Temple in Greek and English.  He did a nice job, and now Foras will install it and oversee the installation of the window and doors. 
 
 
We split a final ouzo at Sultana's bought some rat poisoning to put around the house, picked up "tears" for Stell at the pharmacy, and paid Cosmote.  When all of this was done we went to Takis and Sia's for a huge barbecue.  They had invited their neighbors and a Serbian couple, Zoran and Emile, with their two little boys Nicolas and Mihalis.  The photo below is Zoran with Mihalis:
 


 

Zoran works in construction in Belgrade with his brother.  He said business was slow like everywhere.  He and Emile spoke very good English.  He said he studied English in school, but he learned most of what he knows from watching movies.  When we left, Takis gave me three yellow roses.  He has 42 rose bushes in his garden.

Tonight we will say goodbye to my sister-in-law Anna and probably take one last stroll along the sea saying goodbye to people at Christos and Mitakos restaurants, and Maria and Aggelos at the Pizzaria.
Stell promised we would be home by 11 a.m., because Georgios will be here in his taxi at 6 a.m. to take us to Thessaloniki.

Kalanichta.  

Monday, September 03, 2012

Summer Journal 2012, September 4

Tomorrow at this time we should be about ready to land in Athens, Greece.  Stell asked for a photo of himself in front of his favorite holly tree last night:

Stell and "Holly"
 
We met Petra and Kyros for dinner.  They were animated and caught us up on their three children.  Nicos is 17 and was staying at home in Frankfurt by himself, while his parents are here for two weeks.  Kyros was anxious to put his boat in the sea.  The three of them are going to some island off the coast of South Africa for a month around New Years.  I think Nicos will go for only two months.  Thomas has left his apartment in Darmstadt, but continues his studies in architecture there but lives in an apartment in Frankfurt near his parents.  Melissa has been set back in her medical program because of her accident.  They expressed some concern for her because she is dating a Turk.  This is not easy for Greeks to accept.  Nonetheless, everyone seemed in high spirits and Petra is trying to talk us into coming to Germany when we leave Greece next summer and going with them on a trip to the Black Forest. 
 
We have several errands to run this morning.  For me the main one is to give Tula the Kalosyne Award.  Perhaps I will have a parting message tonight if the internet is still working.   If not, I'll be reporting next from Georgia on Thursday.  

Summer Journal 2012, September 3

I don't know if I will do another blog tomorrow.  Probably I will in the morning.  We haven't heard from Kyros and Petra yet.  We had a wonderful last swim of the summer.  We were the only ones in the sea, the only car by the beach, and the last customers at Milos.  One great surprise was that young Demetri came by.  When I met him as a tiny boy, you cannot imagine how poor his family was.  They  had a dirt packed floor in their home, chickens running around the place- my heartache when I saw how on the edge he lived with his parents and brother and sister.  Today he told us that he is starting a bakery/sweets shop in December, and his baby sister Katerina will study international law. He told me he has kept the pictures I took of them as children.  It was a wonderful reunion with him.  He has studied confectionary art in Thessaloniki.  Some good news in a country of economic crisis.

Our little Peugot -last car on the beach
 
Summer's end
 
Telling Via Goodbye at Milos
 
Good news from Demetri
 
 
Catching Up with Helena
 
Last Swim of 2012
 
Leaving the Sea
 
 
Letting Sleeping Dogs Lie
 
 
Ierissos is over-populated with stray dogs who hang out at each and every restaurant.  People who come here always want to rescue them or suggest that we take them to our house.  Won't work.  What would they do after tomorrow?  Chase coyotes I guess.
 

It's been a fabulous summer.   
 
 

Sunday, September 02, 2012

Summer Journal 2012, September 3

Count down time.  Yesterday Katerina and Stellios Foras brought us spanikopita as a Sunday morning treat.   I showed Katerina the book Julie Bailey gave us years ago with beautiful photographs from America.  Stell felt we should have a tsiparo before they departed.  Actually he thought he was pouring us an ouzo, but when we took our first sips, we realized it was the white lightening.  Everyone got pretty animated!  Today we are cleaning and doing all kinds of last minute chores.  Picking up the car title, which is ready, Stell will probably go to the police station with Stellios to get a notarized paper giving him legal authority to manage the property.  Tonight Kyros and Petra should be here from Frankfurt, so we will at least get to see them a few hours this summer.
We know that Melissa (who stayed with us when she was 14 (7 years ago) had an accident in her medical school training and cut off the end of one of her little fingers.  It has been reattached, but they don't know if the nail will grow back.   She has returned to Pecs in Hungary where she studies to be a dermatologist.  Her aunt is a dermatologist, so I think she is planning on working in her office when she is back in Frankfurt.  Her older brother Thomas is studying architecture and has moved back to Frankfurt in an apartment with a friend.  We will find out about Nicos, the younger brother tonight, when we are with his parents.  I think this is his last year of high school.

Here I am with Katerina yesterday morning and Stell with Foras (aka Reuters):




 
By the way, Katerina's spanikopita was superior.  Other news:  Stell and I are tied at cards, two to two.  Perhaps we will play the final match before we depart.


Summer Journal 2012, September 2

Yesterday was not the easiest for Stell because of his meeting in town, but as he is known to say, "it had to be done."  Fortunately, he could take his mind off of this quite immediately because Costis, Athena, and Angelos (who is truly an angel child) came from Thessaloniki.  They were in grand spirits and just as you can see in the photos they seem to come with permanent smiles:

Mostly Costis wanted to know about Nic and Apisata and he is so hopeful they will make the trip next summer.


Stell took Angelos swimming before we had lunch.  He wanted meatballs and "chips".  Keep in mind his Greek mother is from South Africa, so his perfect English is British-sounding.  He moves back and forth from Greek to English and English to Greek without a moment's hesitation.  I think he talks to his father in Greek and his mother in English.  He's as charming a little boy as they come, but this year he was slightly more shy.



Main Message:  Tell Nic We Want Him to Come to Greece with Apisata
 
Also we saw Stella with her two little boys, Thanassis and Christos.  Her husband, Akis, is a wonderful father too, and we've seen them several times out with the boys this summer.
 
 
Thanassis, Stella, Christos
 

Not anything special planned for today.  Tomorrow night Petra and Kyros will arrive at their place from Frankfurt, and we've agreed to meet for dinner and Tuesday for the lunch we will go to Takis and he will barbecue.  Other than this we are shutting the house down and packing.  Paniyotis has finished the engraving of the marble for the Parents' Temple, so we will probably pick that up tomorrow, and on Tuesday we will shut off the internet in the afternoon.  Georgios will pick us up about 6:15 a.m. on Wednesday morning.  Those are the plans to wrap up our 2012 summer in Ierissos.

A recipe I want from the book Secret Ingredients in an article by Janet Malcolm titled "As the French Do":


Cock in Wine No. 2

Buy four pieces of chicken and as small a slab of pork fat or bacon as you can find.  Fill a cup to the ¼ mark with pork fat you have diced into small pieces.  Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a heavy enameled or stainless casserole, and sauté the pork pieces until brown.  Remove to a side dish.  Add another table spoon of butter to the pot (if needed) and sauté 12 small white onions, 8 large quartered shallots, and 4 sliced carrots until lightly browned.  Remove and add to the side dish with two cloves of crushed garlic.  Rub chicken pieces with salt and pepper, and brown over medium-high flame in the fat left in pot; then remove.  Pour 3 tablespoons brandy into pot and light.  When flames subside, add ¼ tablespoon of flour and stir with a wooden spoon for about a minute over very low heat.  Add one and half to two cups dry white wine, then return chicken and vegetables and pork pieces to the pot.  Cook covered over low heat for half an hour or until the chicken is properly done.  While the chicken is cooking, sauté 4 or 5 sliced mushrooms in 1 tablespoon butter over high heat.  Add them to the pot in the last five minutes of cooking.  Taste the sauce—it will probably need salt.  Serve with boiled new potatoes.

Saturday, September 01, 2012

Summer Journal, September 1

Yes, it is September and it feels like Indian Summer here at Stavraqu.  Lots happening.  I just read delightful stories of tofu, eating rats, martinis, ketchup, and more in Secret Ingredients.  I loved this line:   "How can anyone expect to govern a country with 246 cheeses?"  Charles deGaulle

Maria Karavilisis has phoned and wants to meet with Stell.  I will not attend the meeting, because I absolutely don't want to talk about property.  Costis called from Thessaloniki, and he and his family are on their way.  They should be here in about an hour.  Paniyotis also phoned to say the  marble slat for the Parents' Temple has been engraved.  It has those words in English and Greek and the date 2012.   Doors with stained glass and a stained glass window are yet to be installed, and Foras will plant grass around the  place and secure the stone path.

Parents' Temple near completion
 
Stell also has started a small museum inside the house with old tools, pots and pans, and tapestries:
 
 
 
We had lovely messages and photos from our Georgia neighbor, Chris Franklin.  She has kept our lawn mowed, sent me a picture of a pink rose from my flower garden, and definitely showed us that we aren't returning to a drought like we did last year.  I have about 200 pages to go in my penultimate book, then I will start Fareed Zakaria's The Future of Freedom.  Stell is really appreciating Tony Judt's Ill Fares the Land. 
 
In addition to the phone call from Maria, Stell's young protege has just phoned.  It seems everyone needed "time" to absorb the sober messages.  I forgot to mention that young Spiros was accepted to study mechanical engineering in Thessaloniki which means his folks won't have to shell out an extra hundred euros a month for him to study in Xanthi.  This is good, but it would have also been good for him to have a chance to live on his own.  He's bright and will do well no matter where he lives.